Professional, therapeutic horse shoeing, is also available, on premises to horses in training or trucked in, or we will travel to your personal barn.

Paul Garrison is an Honour Graduate of four schools of horseshoeing, with 30 years of  experience.

Garrison Equine Centre

Let our experts help you to pick out that perfect equine partner today!

 

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Professional, Therapeutic, Horse Shoeing, also available, on premises, or will travel to your personal barn.

Honour Graduate of four schools of Horseshoeing.

30 years experience.

Garrison Equine Centre

Let our experts help you to pick out that perfect equine partner today!

 

 
Ask a Master Farrier...

Readers ask Paul Garrison questions about the care, trimming and shoeing of their horse's hooves. All answers are to be considered for general information only. For specific information about your horse, phone 613-354-4710 to book an appointment with Paul for personalized hoof care for your horse. We're sorry, but we cannot give personalized advice on the phone, without a house call to see your horse.

If you have a question of general interest, email Paul at PaulGarrison@sympatico.ca

 
3. Dear Garrison;

I am worried about my Appaloosa. Why are the black lines extending down from the cornet not straight down at the heel, as at the front? They seem to curve instead. Is this a serious problem? (see attached photo)

Concerned Appaloosa Owner

 
Dear Appaloosa owner
His feet and pastern are built in such a way that he "might" have slightly under-slung heels. As I look at the photo I see the angle of the hoof is same angle as pastern, which is correct, but the black lines at the heel growing down curve to the front. This is a slight sign of under-slung heels. It's not a big deal as of yet, and will likely not cause a problem. I would shoe the horse "full" out the back, that is, leave the heel of the shoe extending a bit behind, to give horse more support.

If things were to get chronic an egg bar shoe (right) would work fine to help alleviate the problem. An egg bar is a bar that goes across from heel to heel on the shoe, but its made in such a way as the bar is in a "C" shape .It does not go "straight" across (See the curved bottom of the show shown. It is curved at the heel and toe.) It extends in a C shape out behind to give more support. A small problem with this may arise.  Perhaps a horse might over reach and pull the shoe off with the back foot, but it usually doesn't happen  as that is where the heel should actually be anyway.

My first ''type written diagram'' hopefully illustrates the straight bar across the back of the shoe

The second one gives you an idea how an egg bar would extend out the back some and give more support 
 ___
 l > )
 
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( > )
Another quick way, is to turn a normal shoe around backwards and nail it on that way That could be a first step if shoer cannot make an egg-bar right there on location, or purchase one at that time. All depends, of course, how bad this under-slung problem is. All in all , I do not see any big problems arising soon. Just have shoer extend the shoe at the heels behind, by putting a larger shoe on the horse, when you shoe him.

Hope this helps,

Garrison

 

2. Dear Garrison;

When are heart-bar shoes used, and how do they help the horse?

Shoeless Josey

 
Paul Garrison:

Dear Shoeless;

Heart Bars are used to help foundered horses, They inadvertently apply pressure to the coffin bone through the frog. Heart Bars help to resist the coffin bone's rotation, as well as relieving the pain of the separation of the sole from the hoof wall. I have been fortunate enough to proudly say that a couple of horses actually trotted away "mostly" sound after applying my home made heart bars One horse was so sore we had to force him to come out of box stall. He then whacked - whacked his poor foundered feet across the cement and rested on a layer of straw on the other side of the barn. He was so sore we could not hold him back as we wanted to, so I shod him there, on the lose straw with the heart bars. We actually had to force him off the straw to see get him back to the box stall. He started again with a whacking trot and then ... you could just read his face as he said ''Ohhh this doesn't hurt any more!" We took him outside and trotted him around.

Other horses, I have shod with various results, but not as quickly and dramatically as that horse. Unfortunately, a couple other horses showed no response so it does help some, but unfortunately, some it doesn't.  

 
1. Dear Garrison;

How do you decide what kind of corks to put on your horse (soldered or screw-in?)

New Horse Owner

 
Paul Garrison:

Dear New Horse Owner;

Screw in corks are made so that you can remove when not needed. If they are removed, flat or blank studs should be put in their place so as the threaded holes do not get filled with debris. You can with the aid of an ordinary wrench remove and replace them with shorter, or longer ones etc. depending on the type of activity and terrain you will be riding upon.

The soldered corks you have asked about are usually made from "Barium". They are applied with a acetylene torches. Barium is a mixture of very hard carbon steel particles blended with a milder steel: The mild steel wears away leaving the hard metal particles, and this is for wear and grip as well. This can be applied flat, or in "blobs" or be brought to a point for different types of traction.

 
 
Contact Information:
Telephone 
613-354-4710 
FAX 
613-354-7066 
Postal address 
815 Belleville Rd., 
RR#6 Napanee, On.
Canada, K7R 3L1
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